Jagmandir Island is yet another horrendous boat ride to the middle of Lake Picchola! Originally built in 1620 by Maharana Karan Singh, it is said that the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan derived some of his inspiration for the Taj Mahal from Jagmandir. In 1857 it was also used as a refuge for Europeans during one of the many anti British Raj era uprisings. Sadly, these days the current Maharana is negotiating with a major hotel chain to develop the property so he can line his enormously fat pockets with just a little more dosh.

Somewhere during all these adventures I had my 46th birthday. My only mandate for the day was to spend the morning at the animal shelter (you'll get to the shelter on page 6) and the rest of the day was a surprise. After leaving Animal Aid at 1pm covered with...well, a lot of animal, my lovely bride took me to the Shilpi Hotel where we had the pool to ourselves for the entire afternoon. Then, in a very good move, organized by the strategic alliance of Helen and Anil, our personal valet from the Lake Palace Hotel whom we have become friends with, I was whisked back out to the gorgeous venue for an evening of fine dining and beverages. Back landside we made it to the Fateh Prakash Hotel inside the Maharana's City Palace for a taste of cardamon whisky, a classic Rajput liquor. Thanks mom for kicking in for the big event.

Mohhram as it was told to us: Around 1500 years ago in Arabia, two very devout Muslim brothers, Hassan and Hussein were at war against an infidel foe in the name of Islam. Both were slain in battle. Mohhram is a celebration of their divinity and to memorialize their spiritual ascention.

Mohhram as it happens in Udaipur: About 2 days before the sacred event the massive quagmire of tangled cobweb-like power lines, illegal feeds, not so high speed internet lines, and laundry lines that crisscross every alley, walkway, and street in downtown Udaipur get mercilessly ripped down. On the day of the big event most of the town is completely without power so at dusk everyone gathers on rooftops. As night creeps in the first trickle of Muslim boys start sprinting down the street towards the lake's edge. In the next moment, a brightly lit 2 story high monolith of lights is being carried down the street by the boys who were holy enough the be shouldering the responsibility of the 5km trip from the mosque to the water's edge. Then the crowd slows for a while. Then the three story disco-lit tower teeters and wobbles its way down to the lake. The cowd becomes more frantic in anticipation. Then, once again, there is momentary peace until the 3rd tower comes. And it’s even higher! This one is so large and all the saintly supporters are so tired that the memorial actually bumps into the sides of buildings as they take it to Lake Picchola. Every few steps the mass of screaming humanity stops to fervently rearrange themselves to lift an edge of the float so it doesn’t take out a building. Every person on the street is shouting directions to keep it from tipping over. Then the last float comes. It looks taller than the Saturn-5 rockets that were used to take men to the moon. By this time it was like watching a train wreck. The monstrosity is slamming into buildings. Parts of it are falling off. Live electrical wires are dangling. People on the street are running like ants climbing over each other as not to be crushed. And there we were, the innocent spectators on the rooftops waiting to be harpooned by the exposed frame. Oh the humanity!!!

Finally, the last effigy made it to the waterfront where the group proceeded to dump it into the lake. I guess eventually they take it from the lake, right? And what happens if you live in a town without a lake to throw a 60 foot high madly blinking float? I suppose you just toss it into the desert and wait for the elements to take their toll. Of course, I could ask, but as usual I'd get 54 different answers and sometimes my Buddha-like perseverance defies me.

Anyway, the next day the spaghetti bowl of overhead power lines is replaced, and the power grid is restored to its full, archaic, blackout prone glory.…

Through Carol and Babu we met Piers, the unofficial mayor of Udaipur. Known and loved by all, his title this well deserved. He is also the unofficial Cultural Minister of Rajasthan. His tireless efforts to cultivate the arts in Udaipur and its surrounding areas are well documented as are the many projects he’s involved in that help the less fortunate including dalit children and widows and divorced women who are the social pariahs of India. Interesting as can be, always a good laugh, and perpetually willing to host a function, Piers often puts his majestic mountaintop house to good use for good old fashion western food, strong drink and dancing the night away.

At one of Piers’ incredible dinner soirees we met a Swiss woman named Judtih who went to a temple in a place called Ekling-ji (pronounced Ek-lin-ji) every Monday. So, naturally we invited ourselves to go with her.

We took a local bus 45 minutes north of Udaipur and got off in a little village that was shocked to see 4 gringo’s. Imagine this…a very tall Judith with flaming red hair, Helen, who people seemed to think was Angelina Jolie, Madeline, another very tall Swiss woman, and an old bald guy (me) – yes, we made quite a sight. Judith has been going there a while so she led us to a beautiful Shiva temple that sat on a lake. I was only able to take a couple of pictures before they made me stop so these are the only record. A Bhajan is kind of part jam session and part religious chanting. Everyone brings instruments and anyone can participate. There is no age barrier, no caste barrier, or gender barrier – although women typically have their own Bhajans to attend. In the world of yoga it would be termed Bhakti Yoga, or devotional yoga. Some of the more popular singers in the west are Bhagavan Das and Krishna Das. Basically what happens is that somebody will begin a raga (song) by singing and playing a few chords on a harmonium (looks like an accordion crossed with a tiny upright piano) and the drums, bells, and any other instruments just join in. It’s very repetitive music and when up to 30 people participate it creates a very powerful and energized state unlike my other limited church experiences which I hate to say have left me a bit cold. After a few songs, those who are feelin' Shiva spring up and shake a leg. Unfortunately, we could only make it back one more time before leaving.