One day we decided to take a Khmer cuisine cooking class. We went to Le Tigre du Papier because they donate the proceeds to an organization called Sala Bai which provides free training for young underprivileged Cambodians in hotel and restaurant services. Jean Luc, the owner of Le Tigre also employs their graduates. Our chef, Ruun, was very patient. As it turns out I have a hidden talent that came to light during the class – if you ever need fresh spring rolls, I'm your guy. The great thing about a cooking class is polishing off the curriculum afterwards. When it was all said and done, we were even awarded diplomas. |
About 50 km north of Siem Reap is Kbal Spean, which translated means RIver of 1000 Lingas. It is home to the most numerous and intricate riverbed carvings in the entire Angkor area and was only rediscovered in 1969 by a shephard moving his flock through the jungle. A linga is a symbol of divine energy and is used during prayer to Shiva, the Hindu god of destruction and one of the triumvirate of Hindu dieties that provides the cornertstone of the reilgion. Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam are strong examples of how Hinduism pervaded the culture until the spread and integration of Buddhism. Unfortunately, but commonly, many of the carvings have been defaced by looters. Regardless, it's remote and stunning location and the strange questions it provokes makes for an alluring experience. Even the trees and bugs were beautiful. |
Right next to Kbal Spean is the ACCB, or The Angkor Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity...I guess that's why they shortened it to the acromyn. We've all heard about how tigers' numbers are dwindling and wild elephants are quickly slipping into domesticity, but when was the last time you thought about the Duoc Langur, or the Giant Ibis. The ACCB rehabilitates animals that have been confiscated from the illegal wildlife trade that flourishes in this part of the world. Many endangered animals are sold in illegal markets and end up in "traditional" medicine, as pets, or on a dinner plate in China (the local joke is that the Chinese eat anything that moves). The ACCB takes great pains to keep visitors at a distance so the animals don't become too humanized. Some animals like the White Gibbon missing a leg will be kept in captivity for life. Helen and I were the last ACCB visitors to see Leopard Cat babies before they went into isolation and retraining to be released into the jungle. In these pictures they may look docile, but in reality they were hissing and clawing when we went near their basket – truely, beautifully feral. |
On the way back to Siem Reap we passed yet another Wat. Banteay Srai is considered to be the jewel of the Angkor artistic crown. Being much smaller than the rest of it's family, Banteay Srai makes it up in the detail of it's elaborate carvings. |